• This recipe is formulated for All Trumps flour, a malted high-gluten flour. No additional diastatic malt powder, amylase enzyme, or ascorbic acid is necessary when using this flour.
• When using an unmalted bread flour or all-purpose flour, you may add:
• * 2–3 grams diastatic malt powder
• * 0.25–0.5 gram ascorbic acid

Prepare the Yudane

• Place 50 grams of flour in a heat-safe bowl.
• Pour 50 grams of freshly boiling water over the flour. Stir immediately until all the flour is hydrated and a thick paste forms.
• Cover the Yudane directly against its surface and allow it to cool. Refrigerate it for at least 4 hours and up to 24 hours.
• The Yudane may be prepared the day before making the dough.

Prepare the Poolish

• Combine the poolish flour, water, active dry yeast, and sugar. Stir until no dry flour remains.
• Cover and ferment at room temperature.
• At approximately 70–74°F:
• * **Minimum fermentation:** 3 hours
• * **Recommended fermentation:** 4–6 hours
• * **Maximum fermentation:** Approximately 8 hours, provided the poolish has not collapsed
• The poolish is ready when it has expanded, developed bubbles across the surface, and formed a slightly domed top that is just beginning to flatten.
• Do not wait until the poolish has completely collapsed or become watery.

Make the Final Dough

• Tear the chilled Yudane into several small pieces so it will disperse more easily in the dough.
• Add the poolish, Yudane, 250 grams of flour, approximately half of the final-dough water, and the optional egg to the mixer.
• When making the egg-free version, use 70 grams of total final-dough water, but hold approximately half of it back initially.
• Mix at low speed, approximately 200 rpm, for 2 minutes or until a rough dough forms.
• Add the salt.
• Gradually add the remaining water while mixing. Allow each addition to become incorporated before adding more.
• Slowly add the olive oil.
• Increase the mixer speed to approximately 300 rpm and continue mixing until the Yudane is completely dispersed and the dough is smooth, elastic, and moderately well developed.
• The dough should be soft and slightly tacky but should not be runny or excessively sticky. Add up to 5–15 grams of additional water if the dough remains unusually stiff.

Bulk Fermentation

• Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled container and cover it.
• Allow the dough to bulk ferment at room temperature for 30 minutes.
• ## Divide and Preshape
• Divide the dough into three equal portions.
• Each piece should weigh approximately:
• * 288–290 grams when using the egg
• * 285–286 grams without the egg
• Preshape each piece into a short log.
• Cover and allow the dough to rest for 10–15 minutes.

Shape the Rolls

• Gently flatten one portion of dough into a rectangle.
• Roll the dough tightly into a cylinder, sealing the seam after each turn. Continue rolling and gently stretching until the roll is approximately 12 inches long.
• Create a smooth, tight outer surface without tearing the dough.
• Repeat with the remaining portions.
• Place the shaped rolls seam-side down on a parchment-lined baking sheet or in a hoagie-roll pan.

Add the Topping

• Lightly brush or mist the rolls with water.
• Sprinkle with sesame seeds, poppy seeds, or another desired topping. A light dusting of cornmeal may also be used on the bottom of the rolls.

Proof and Refrigerate

• Cover the shaped rolls and allow them to proof at room temperature for approximately 30 minutes.
• Place the covered rolls in the refrigerator for 12–24 hours.
• The rolls should remain covered during refrigeration so their surfaces do not dry out.

Bake

• Remove the rolls from the refrigerator while the oven preheats to 450°F.
• If desired, make one shallow lengthwise score along the top of each roll immediately before baking.
• Bake for 12–16 minutes, or until the rolls are evenly golden brown.
• The internal temperature should reach approximately 195–200°F.
• Avoid underbaking, as the Yudane increases the amount of moisture retained inside the rolls.

Cool and Store

• Transfer the rolls to a wire rack and allow them to cool completely before slicing or storing.
• For a softer crust, loosely cover the warm rolls with a clean kitchen towel while they cool.
• Once completely cool, place the rolls in a sealed plastic bag or airtight container.
• Store at room temperature for up to 2–3 days. For longer storage, freeze the rolls rather than refrigerating them. Refrigeration causes bread to stale more quickly.
• To refresh a roll, lightly mist it with water and warm it in a 350°F oven for 5–7 minutes.